Yom Kippur in Israel

Yom Kippur here in Israel was a drastically different experience than I've had all my life in the United States. Yom Kippur, which translates roughly to Day of Atonement, is a much more serious, solemn, and significant day here than anywhere else. It was a particularly fascinating and eye opening for me since the majority of my past experiences with Judaism have been rooted solely in tradition rather than in religion. Here, it is a day with a very unique atmosphere on which you couldn't possibly go without feeling both the traditional and religious significance for the Israeli people. Certainly not everyone here observes the religious aspects of Yom Kippur, however everyone here respects them and the seriousness of the occasion.

The seriousness of the day comes from God's command that this be the day that we repent for our year of sins and 'torture our souls' in order to atone for them. It is regarded as the day that judgement is passed upon the world and humanity for the next year. For religious Jews, Yom  Kippur is the holiest and most solemn day of the year and is an intense day of prayer, fasting, abstaining from washing and bathing, and abstaining from work and entertainment. For more secular Jews (like myself and my family) Yom Kippur is simply a day on which you reflect on your sins and those you have wronged in the past year.

Everything shuts down in Israel on Yom Kippur. No shops, no work, no public transportation, no flying into or out of Israel, and television and radio broadcasts are suspended. Out of respect, even the more secular Jews who do not practice most traditions of Yom Kippur still abstain from doing anything offensive publicly such as driving, eating, hanging laundry from their clotheslines, working in the garden, cooking strongly scented food, playing games or sports outdoors, or playing music or movies loudly enough to be heard. Therefore, it seems as though everyone is observing the traditions and a truly strange and unique atmosphere descends upon Israel. Everything is quiet and still and it is impossible to miss the spiritual significance of the day.

At the exact moment of sundown on 'Erev Chag' (the evening preceding Yom Kippur) driving is prohibited in all of Israel. This is the moment when everything grows still... it happens so quickly. Interestingly, driving is not prohibited by law, but rather out of respect for tradition. My friends here explained to me that if one does drive on Yom Kippur he will not be given a legal citation, but depending upon where he drives (usually if it's within Jerusalem or other extremely religious neighborhoods) he will have rocks thrown at his car by religious observers. In my town (a generally more secular and loosely observant one) ambulances and other emergency vehicles still drove when necessary. Apparently, 30 babies were born this year on Yom Kippur... so the ambulances were needed! The streets are generally empty and it is considered a "Mitzvah" to walk in the street during Yom Kippur. It is possible to walk down the middle of the highway if you want! On the evening of the holiday, many people in Ness Ziona take to the streets and walk through them greeting their neighbors and seeing old friends and classmates usually for the only time that year. Most children ride bikes around the streets all over the city. When going out during Yom Kippur it is traditional to wear white as a symbol of cleansing oneself of their sins. Here are some pictures of the night on Ness Ziona's streets :)

As for the fast, only about 60% of Israeli Jews fast on Yom Kippur. Some fast with water, some without. As in most aspects of Judaism traditions vary widely. As an act of respect, those not fasting generally try not to prepare food that smells strongly and could be detected by those around them. It is also advised not to eat in public. It is traditional to have a large and festive meal in the afternoon before the fast begins in order to fill up and last through the fast. Some more secular Jews also observe this tradition, since most Jewish occasions include a feast of some kind :) Additionally, a meal is served to 'break the fast' after the 25th hour of fasting.

As for entertainment in Israel on Yom Kippur... there is no TV or Radio! All broadcasting is halted until after sundown as the fast ends. Here's what you see if you turn on the TV:

 

They read that it is Yom Kippur and that broadcasts will resume after it ends. They also say "Gmar Chatima Tovah" which is a traditional greeting on Yom Kippur. This greeting comes from the Jewish belief that God inscribes each person's fate for the coming year into a book on Rosh HaShanah and waits until Yom Kippur to make it official. The word "Chatima" is used as the word for 'signature' in modern Hebrew. However, traditionally Chatima meant to seal something or to make it official. "Gmar" comes from the word for finish. And "Tovah" good or well. So, with this greeting you saying technically "may your finished sealing be good." However, with interpretation you are wishing upon someone God's good final judgement for the year :) 

So, there's a bit of my experience of Yom Kippur here! It was a really amazing experience that really helped me internalize where I am living and understand the culture I am living in. It was interesting to have an entire 25 hours where everyone is united in observance of something. In the US there are so many different holidays and traditions and none of them coincide. The Jews go to movies and Chinese restaurants on Christmas while the Christians are observing,  the Christians all go to work and school on Rosh HaShanah and Yom Kippur while the Jews are observing. The same goes for Islamic holidays such as Ramadan, Hindu celebrations like Diwali, and the many many other occasions celebrated and observed by religions in the US. With such a vast and varied calendar, there is no day like Yom Kippur where everyone is observing the same thing in the same manner. All in all, a very new and exciting experience. 

And believe it or not we are NOT done with the holidays yet! Right now we are in Sukkot and next week we will celebrate Simcha Torah. So wait for the reports on those!